I got an inkle loom for my Birthday, since I've been told that one can do tablet weaving on an inkle loom. But at the moment, I'm trying to figure out how to thread it (warp it?) and how exactly it would work.
I've found a couple of videos on YouTube, but they were just still-pictures and I didn't really understand it very well. I also tried looking elsewhere online, but again, just still pictures with instructions...something in my head isn't clicking when I read the instructions or look at the pictures.
Would anyone know of a place where I might find an actual video on how to thread my inkle loom for tablet weaving?
- Current Mood: hopeful
I'm hoping to do some two-person fingerloop braids with a friend this weekend. However, I'm getting horribly confused by the notation and whose hands go where. I was hoping to do some of the braids from here:
Does anyone have any advice/hints/tips? Favourite two-person braids? Easy two-person braids? Instructions?
This'll mostly just be for fun. However, my friend has never done fingerloop before (though he has done just about every other sort of braiding one can think of), so I'm hoping to a) make something reasonably pretty and/or impressive, to convince him it's a good technique but also b) not get in a horrific tangle, despite being two beginners, and thus scare him off from ever helping me with them again. :)
Thanks in advance!
EDIT: Just to say, I'm particularly getting confused with the instructions that say "work with inner hands" or "work with outer hands". Does this mean if I am on the left and my partner is on my right, our hand go l->r like this: my left, their left, my right, their right? Or do the hands go: my left, my right, their left, their right?
I.e. do my hands work as a pair and my partner's hands work as a pair, with occasional exchanges between these two pairs? Or do my l. hand and their l. hand work as a pair, and my r. hand and their l. hand work as a pair, with occasional exchanges between these two pairs?
EDIT 2: Sorry guys, removed the link when re-writing for clarity and forgot to put it back in.
Here is my primary source for patterns
Here is my second source of patterns
An example of a braid with instructions to "work with inner hands" would be t29. Interestingly, I just noticed another braid which instructs to "work with left hand" or "work with right hand".
I understand that period materials are important for making period garments (with their ability to stretch with the grain and so forth), and one thing I hear constantly when I discuss materials online is that you really do have to use wool when wool would be used, and even if it's in the nineties all day, a lightweight wool can keep you cool, so there's no excuse for not using it. The problem is that I'm a life-long Floridian, and I have no experience with wool except for owning a 100% wool beret, so I know I'm not allergic to it. Our thrift stores (I've seen many people online say to look in thrift stores for cheap wool) are completely devoid of wool in any form, and what exists in our fabric stores is all suit-colored and blended with rayon at over twenty dollars a yard.
I guess my questions start with this: is the above thing about wool keeping you cool actually true? How do wool-weights work? What's a decent price for wool? What common wool adjectives (worsted, grabardine, twill, etc.) can help point me towards suitable fabrics? Where on earth do you get said fabrics online? Is there anything really weird about sewing with wool that I would need to know? Actually, pretty much anything that exists to know about wool except that it usually comes from sheep is probably going to be news to me.
- Current Mood: nerdy
Tis here: http://www.virtue.to/articles/images/147
From what I can see, it's 15th Century (second half? ... I'm not so hot on post-1400 costume) and the lady in front appears to be using what could be a warping board or could be an inkle-like loom. The lady on the left is winding yarn onto or off of a niddy noddy. It's less clear what the other two are doing.
(Also, as an academic point, isn't the lady in blue on the left wearing what all the 15th C recreators want to see - the infamous black band, unobscured by a henin or anything?)
Anywho, it also appears to be a scan of a book. The book appears to have edited out the background of the manuscript.
So, anyone know of any other webpages that mention this image? Anyone know the book it is scanned from? Or, does anyone know the answer to the million-dollar question - which manuscript is it from?
Thanks in advance!
I've conceived the desire to make a replica of the banner of Gil-galad (as designed for the Lord of the Rings films), but I basically have no idea where to start. My experience with fiber arts is limited to a few cross-stitch projects; I have no experience with other embroidery stitches or applique. So, I have no idea what techniques I should use.
( picture of what I'm aiming forCollapse )
I'm most worried about the curling tendrils (applique? embroidery? if embroidery, what stitch?) but any advice you could give me on making any part would be fantastic and much appreciated. I know I'll have to practice before I can tackle the project itself, but first I need to know what to practice!
Thanks in advance. :)
I'm wondering also just how wide I can push the size of the ribbon on this technique. London finds seem to be largely 2-card jobs to just add some support to a lacing edge, but I think I might have seen 4-card examples from Woven Into the Earth (I'm working from memory here, and I have a feeling I might be wrong; I really need to get this book back from the library). I'm wondering just how manageable a 1/4" or so wide ribbon might be with this technique. I became curious with the idea after seeing the subtle embellishment on the sleeves of this figure in a Van der Goes painting: http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/15th/nikulin-i
If anyone has done this before and can lend their expertise, that would be great. I'll probably end up doing some experiments regardless.
crossposted to handsewngarb
I havn't seen any posts here recently, but never hurts to try to pop in and contribute. Post guys, I want to see your fiber arts!
Christmas break is nice because I find I have lots of free time. I've been working on nalbinding. Below is all of the things I made with some very pretty red wool yarn I picked up (Lamb's Pride brand). Its a hat, done in lots of different stitches, because I was experimenting, mittens done in plain Oslo stitch, and the start of some toes for socks. Then I ran out of the yarn :D I have no documentation for the open slit in the mittens, but I wanted them there so I can use my fingers when needed without taking of the mittens.
This will take place on Wednesday of war week - August 11 - all day.
Do you make lace; are you interested in learning to make lace? Come to the lace making tent at Pennsic Artisan's Row!
Lacemakers are going to display their work. You can see what lace in period looked like and how it was made. If you are interested in learning, you can drop in and learn from one of us. If you make lace and would like to join us, come on by and bring your work to display!
If you are a 16th century costumer, this is a great way to learn more about an aspect of clothing that was extremely important to people during that time. Even if you are not interested in making lace yourself, you can see what period lace actually looked like and get leads on how to research this area of costume. This can help you make informed choices when you purchase lace or trim.
Among the people there will be myself (Mistress Arrienne Ashford (Middle)- cutwork or needle lace and Mistress Nest (East) - bobbin lace.
I'm trying to learn tablet weaving, but I'm running into a very frustrating problem, which is that everywhere I look to buy yarn I find neon pink, and turquoise, and all sorts of fun modern things. But where do you go to look for yarn in period colors?
Thanks so much for your time!
- Current Mood: curious
Recently, I had been wanting to take up tatting. Now, I read that tatting isn't period (I believe it has it's origins in the 18th century?) but I was wondering if there was something that might be simular to tatting that's period? If so, what's it called and how do you do it?
- Current Mood: curious
However, I've only been to one dye workshop and I'm no longer near the group I dyed with.
I was wondering is it possible to dye wool without mordant. I would like to make the wool grey or black.
- Current Mood: chipper
The shuttle is a piece of metal labeled as a "stud protector". There was a curved cut at each end to allow a small section in the middle to be folded back, and then the ends of that piece were pushed up as prongs, to be pounded into a piece of wood. I scored those sections with a dremel and snapped them off, then ground and polished all the sharp edges with the dremel. So far the tiny puppy has climbed over and through the warp several times, but shown no interest in chewing on the loom. This is the same basic pattern as the one from here - http://oakenking.livejournal.com/16
I don't have an enormous kettle (and I wouldn't light a fire outside if you paid me, Arizona is too dry and hot in August as it is!), so I was hoping for some brilliant trick using my washing machine (minus the agitation). However, I'm worried that the wool will take the dye splotchily if the fabric doesn't move/mix in the dye bath.
So. Dyeing advice? Wool handling advice? Dye recommendations?
Edited to add:
Thanks for the advice! I think I'm going to use my washing machine as a very large vat, fill it with hot water, and add predissolved Jacquard Acid dye/vinegar and a wetting agent. I'll pre-wash my wool with Synthrapol and add it sopping wet to the machine. No agitation, just a few pokes now and again to keep things from settling in splotches.
I have processed two Rambouillet fleeces this spring...and am looking forward to trying some natural dyes after I spin them up. I am particularly fond of woolen spinning.
Looking forward to meeting you all!
I'm planning on dying the socks when I finish them. Definitely with natural dyes, probably aiming for an autumnal colour of some sort (not green *has too much green*).
Does anyone have any good natural dye recipies? This is what I need:
-mustn't damage the fibre (so nothing with too much iron, yes?)
-colourfastness (can't be bothered redying)
-preferably cool or cold dye bath and mordant bath (the socks are coming up a bit big but won't be massive so I can't afford too much shrinkage)
-reasonably easy (this is my first dye project but I have someone who's done a bit of dying before AGES ago)
-reasonably easy to aquire dyes and mordants (UK)
Thanks in advance!!
EDIT:: Forgot to say. Bonus points if the dye and mordant are authentic for late 14th C Britain.
EDIT:: Although the hints for easy indigo are nice, I was thinking of more reds/yellows/autumnal colours for this project. If anyone has tips for madder, weld or other dyes that give colours in that spectrum they would be most appreciated. :)
I got some fabric in the last fabric-store.com doggie bag sale, and wanted to make a headrail out of some of the linen. I didn't have short hair when I was last an active SCAdian, but do now.
I'm wanting to go the long, rectangular route (as fillet bands tend give me a headache), like the example shown here: http://www.historic-enterprises.com/car
Is there any possible solution to this that does not involve buying more fabric, or have I smacked myself in the face with a lesson in patience?
Which leads to my question, my stock solution doesn't look like I expected. I made it yesterday during the day. The directions say:
Add one ounce of indigo powder to one cup of cold water and mix thoroughly
Slowly stir in 1/2 ounce of Spectralite. Let stand 10 minutes.
Mix 3/4 teaspoon lye with 1/4 cup water, slowly add to above mixture.
Keep warm (110-120 degrees F). Wait at least one hour before using. It should look golden brown with a shiny slick on top.
Okay, so I did all that. It took a long time to mix the indigo with water, and when I did there was a sort of wet foam on top. I wrapped a heating pad around the jar, and left it for an hour or two. It was still blue (and very stinky), so I left it longer.
This morning it's sort of yellowish-green, with a lot of sediment in the bottom, a large head of foam, and bubbles coming up from the sediment like it's fermenting.
Thoughts? Is it ready to use when it's green, or should I wait until it's golden brown? Should I stir in the sediment before using it?
Thanks in advance :)
x-posted to my journal
For those of you who embroider your own trim, how wide do you make it? Do you limit yourself to the width of woven bands? How do you find your extant examples? (As an early period Irish persona, I'm working with art and architecture examples to extrapolate, as well as nearby cultures' embroidery of the right period, but I still wonder about size.)
Has anyone experimented with embroidered seams (a la http://www.cs.vassar.edu/~capriest/vike
Thank you in advance from the depths of my Alleve-riddled person.
She's just starting to post about a series of experiments in dyeing using materials and mordants that would have been available to 7th c. Anglo-Saxon dyers. That's a wee bit early for my tastes, but still good info. The colors she's achieving are gorgeous -- rich and saturated and not at all dull.
Go forth and read and drool at your leisure, and buy her new(er) book, Colours from Nature.
crossposted like whoa.
- Current Mood: tired
I want to mend some older garb and make some new, and this time, I want to add embroidery, and here's my quandary: I have plenty of linen fabric in my stash, but no in-period embroidery threads. What I do have is a metric butt-ton of standard 6-strand cotton floss (mostly DMC), and a not-insubstantial collection of Pearl Cotton (size 5, from the DMC Linea line). Are either of these regarded as acceptable (maybe a better word would be understandable) substitutes for silk embroidery threads?
It's simply not in my budget to buy new fibers right now, nor would I feel particularly good about wasting what I've got even if I could.
Tiny secondary question: I have some amazing laceweight wool from handpaintedyarn.com (a reference pic for size: here). It's a beautiful burgundy with hints of green. Is there any period evidence for threads dyed to be multiple colors?
I'm just posting this to gauge levels of interest.
I just wish that the Roman generals who made reports and kept "diaries" would've thought to mention the supplies in more specific terms, but... since they didn't, I have to rely on archaeological records/reports/publications.
*mutter mutter need a dratted time machine mutter mutter*
cross-posted to my personal journal
- Current Mood: curious
Most of the embellishment, I can understand and get behind -- paillettes and/or pearls on the gold brocade trim, tube bead necklace, the flowers around the necklace and bodice -- I love it all. What I don't quite get is whatever is on her white smock in the vaguely seashell or maybe coronet-shaped gold design, running in horizontal bands up to the neckband. Is it embroidery? Voided? I have been playing around with doing a tudor-era gold-colored embroidery on a smock kinda like this (http://www.clevelandart.org/explore/ar
If it's not embroidery, I'm kinda clueless as to what it can actually be, other than maybe applique. It certainly doesn't seem to be jewelry. What do you guys think?
Also, any insight into the headgear would also be welcome.
x-posted to sca_garb
(still the crappy $9 camera so I apologize in advance for the poor quality and dark pics but it's the best I can do right now)
I've started work on my first project on my new copper loom. So far is has been very fun to experiment with but I will concede that doing double-face tablet weaving and brocaded tablet weaving on the same piece makes for a slow process. I've been working on it about 12 hrs so far and have about 20 inches (did I mention I'm the world's slowest weaver). Actually 20 inches is more than I expected I'd done so far. I'm pretty happy with the pattern so far even though I have no idea what I'm going to do with it when I'm done :)
( See all the pics belowCollapse )
- Current Mood: awake
- Current Music:firefly on DVD
Today I built it and since the original builder mentioned he needed to secure the joints better to keep it from twisting I used a little JB Weld at most of the joints. Because I added the JB Weld I'm going to have to be patient and wait to warp it up until tomorrow :(
One day I think it would be fun to weave a scroll and this loom will work perfect for that.
- Current Location:Outlands
- Current Mood: accomplished
- Current Music:TV in the background
I did do interfacings on the neck & "eyelet" placket. I didn't line the thing because I ended up not having enough of the material I -was- going to line it with (I seriously messed up when I was doing the chemise/slip thing).
I only put in 2 gores (one at each side, starting at the hip - I'm sure you can tell where since there's poofing at the hips) because I didn't like how the gores looked when I had the pinned in the front & back.
These pictures show the dress on my form, which is raised at least 2 inches higher than my shoulder height (5'6" at shoulder, 5'9" total). I gave it a little train in the back, because I just thought it looked elegant. I still need to hem the darn thing, but I don't have the energy to do that right now.
I was really frustrated that my center front seam ended up being not so straight after completing the garment. I'm also too lazy to go back and do any more tiny button holes. So, I'm leaving the sleeves open. After I laced it all up (which I did with white ribbon yarn - 3 strands - and a yarn needle), I stepped back and thought "huh, kinda looks like a tennis shoe." I think it has a chuck taylor's feel to it. I've definitely owned a pair in those two colors. Whatever. Overall I'm pretty happy with how it turned out.
So, with out further ado:
And, if anyone got -really- close, yes there is a bra there. I just cannot abandon my modern bra, also it won't fit if I don't wear one, since I did the fitting with the bra on.
I'm doing a...mi-parti (?) cote in gold and ultramarine blue, with each side (front & back) one color. I'm also working on the chemise, which is actually looking more like a slip than a real chemise (but nobody is going to see it). I re-did the fitting in the (pre-washed) linen. So far, the fit seems perfect; thank god for my dress maker's form.
Simply put, my husband is thinking of weaving the peacock depicted here. It's in both Collingswood's Techniques of Tabletweaving and Candace Crockett's Card Weaving - both simply say the design was collected in the 20th century and give a location (which I have been unable to turn anything up with).
Now, Hendrickson says that she got the information from from Staudigel, and from what it's looking like, that may be the best information. So, what I'm looking for, if anyone has it, is simply the relevant information - location, time period, etc.
Thanks very much in advance!
as for why i'm doing his research - i simply promised i'd help him document it. he gets to write if this comes to fruition. *grin*
I spent all day today fiddling with my dress maker's form and made two thigh-length mock-ups of a heraldic cotehardie.
The first was based on this tutorial : http://www.modehistorique.com/elizabeth
...and the second was done using this wonderfully helpful, genius, superb step-by-step method:
I was more successful with the second method, since I have a form that is set to my exact measurements, and I'm not too worry about bust support since I am, well lacking in that area.
Tomorrow I'm planning on running to whatever fabric stores will be open during mardi gras season/sunday to pick up some fabric. I can't decide if I need to line the cote or not. I also can't decide between a black & white heraldic (colors are of the group who offered to let me camp with them & generally take care of me) based on this one:
...or this gorgeous bias-cut plaid heraldic:
I know I'll need (way) more fabric if I line the cote and/or if I decided to do the bias cut plaid.
I'm equally as lost when it comes to the type of fabric to buy. Linen sounds wonderfully comfortable, but I'm afraid that it will be too stretchy. I'm not worried about getting cold, since I will be bringing some mundane clothes to layer underneath the cotes/tunics. I'm more worried about being hot, since I cannot cope with humidity or heat very well. Hmm....suggestions? What are your favorite fabrics? Also, I guesstimated that I'll need between 6 and 12 yards depending on how I decide to do the cotehardie. Does this sound about right?
I also realized that, for to conserve as much fabric as possible, the skirt should be gored instead of making a super-flared pattern. I also want to do tippets, but as removable arm bands. And I was thinking about grabbing a piece of linen for some sort of head covering.
I'm also going to make at least 2 floor-length tunics and one shorter, contrasting tunic with looser sleeves, and a chemise to wear under the cotes. I'm really excited about having a -real- excuse to spend all my free time sewing, especially in the name of research!
I'm having a hard time finding patterns for Chinese clothing for men... there's a lot of Japanese stuff out there, and a smidgeon of patterns for women, but I haven't found stuff for men. Does anyone have any suggestions?
I'm very excited about making garb, since I already love to sew. I've been researching different garb patterns/styles, and I've settled on a few things. However, I've read in a few places that some colors may/may not be reserved for special groups, like royalty, etc.
Is there anyone going to Gulf Wars or in/near Gleann Abhann that can help me out with this? Are there any colors I should avoid? I really love royal blue, deep purples, sage-y greens, brown, and white, and I was thinking about using at least some of these colors, especially the blue.
I feel like I should also tell everyone what I'm planning on making. Since I'm planning on staying at Gulf Wars for 4-5 days I decided on making: a chemise, 2 floor-length t-tunics & one contrasting shorter tunic, gathered skirt (which I thought I'd do as a wrap skirt - I know it might not be period, but it'd be easy for me to make - I hate closures - and comfortable); shorter blouse & one fitted-ish bodice, and MAYBE the crudest of cloaks (but that really depends on how cold it gets in mississippi between now and march).
Is this too ambitious? I have a dress-maker's form that I'm dying to break in, and this is my excuse to spend 2 weekends doing nothing but sewing.
Also, sewing tips would be very helpful and maybe some (cheap) fabric suggestions.
I now have this discoloration around the edges of the dryer sheet on the fabric. I thought it might go away once it cooled and dried. No luck. It is a light beige fabric and now there are darker beige spots around the embroidery on the front and back.
Is there any suggestions to remove the discoloration? It might be something simple like soaking it, but I don't want to mess with it like that if it will make it worse.
Any help suggestions will be appreciated. Thanks! :)
- Current Mood: stressed
I hope everyone has a wonderful Holiday Season.
I was wondering if anyone knew of somewhere (US or other) where I could get some Faeroe, Spaelsau or Old Norwegian breed fleece. I'm looking for samples at the moment (with hopefully a chance at getting a lock or two for structure). This is for my ongoing research into early sheep breeds that may have been used by the Picts in Orkney circa 650AD.
I'm making for my sister a new chemise with blackwork trim for her Tudor gown. Since she's a herald, I thought it might be cool to do her arms on her cuffs. I'm not ambitious enough to do full sleeves, unless using a machine and I would really like this to be hand done. I graphed out a design with the main charge and the design of her three secondaries alternating. So there is a harp, fountain, harp, fountain, and so on. My question is, is it okay to embroidery this all in black or should I do the harps in gold thread and the fountain in green? The chemise is white. She is getting a Tudor gown made that is in green and gold, but she also wears a lot of black, white and gold and has a green, white and gold gown as well. I'd like her to be able to use this for more than one outfit. I'm posting a pic of her device for reference purposes. (those on the list who know her please don't say anything)
Two layers of melton wool (with some silk inside the crown) makes a very stiff hat. Her flat cap holds it's poof extremely well and bounces back up even after being wadded up in her bag. (part of the durability test) Time to wear it in the rain.
Next thing to try is how high can we make a hat and have it still hold it's shape and will pretreating the wool other than a first wash effect it.
No buckram needed. No fusible interfacing. No stiffeners. Who knew? Like most things, it's all a lot easier than you think, esp. once you know how ;-)!
I have been using Eterna silk on another project and the black "bleeds" onto the surrounding linen, so I know it is out. After getting my POF4 yesterday, I may end up using red or blue for his shirt instead.
These are mostly for mariamist, but I know there may be others here who are interested!
I have posted pics of a few Moorish Textiles held at the Victoria & Albert Museum. They are 14th-15th C. My favorite is a fabulous rich red and blue fabric. They are posted here.
I hope to be posting several other albums of 5th-7th C textiles from the Sasanian Empire (Asia Minor, Mesopotamia, Syria, Persia and Egypt)! I'll keep you all posted.
- Current Mood: accomplished
ETA: I know modern needlelacers use a wide range of threads--I am interested in what was used in the 16th century and how I would document that.
My questions- I'm wondering into hat making. The beginning reading I have done says "stiffened fabric" and "buckram" all over the place.
What was the fabric stiffened with?
What happens when it gets caught in the rain?
How can I make my own buckram from the bolts upon bolts of linen I have?
Was the stiffener for hat forms the same stiffener for ruffs?
Was horsehair a crammed in as a wad like in uplostery, or was it woven a la horsehair braid?
- Current Mood: cheerful