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Warp Sewn Tablet Weaving Question

I'm working on a handsewn 15th c-ish kirtle based on the London finds (Clothing and Textiles by Crowfoot et al) and I'm getting close to done on the dress itself, but now have to start thinking about the warp-sewn tablet weaving worked around the necklines and such.  While I pretty much get the concept of the sew-as-you-go tablet weaving technique (I already know basic tablet weaving), I'm wondering if anyone knows of any other resources that would help me get a sense of how to do it when you're working it on an actual garment.  I know there are plenty of examples based on the Crowfoot book and Woven Into the Earth but it still seems kind of rare in my SCA circles, and I'm kind of excited at the possibility of doing something different than the standard make tablet weaving, sew on a thing technique.

I'm wondering also just how wide I can push the size of the ribbon on this technique.  London finds seem to be largely 2-card jobs to just add some support to a lacing edge, but I think I might have seen 4-card examples from Woven Into the Earth (I'm working from memory here, and I have a feeling I might be wrong; I really need to get this book back from the library).  I'm wondering just how manageable a 1/4" or so wide ribbon might be with this technique.  I became curious with the idea after seeing the subtle embellishment on the sleeves of this figure in a Van der Goes painting:  http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/15th/nikulin-innocents-det1.jpg and thought it might be better served with tablet weaving then, say, embroidery.

If anyone has done this before and can lend their expertise, that would be great.  I'll probably end up doing some experiments regardless.

crossposted to handsewngarb


( 1 comment — Leave a comment )
Mar. 21st, 2011 06:46 am (UTC)
Collingwood has 2 pages on this in chapter 15 of "The Techniques of Tabletweaving". He gives 3 examples of iron age fabrics that have tabletwoven edges - one of them has an ending border of 42 cords. There are some pictures so if you can get a hold of a copy of the book it might be worthwhile. :)
Also, Collingwood mentions that the hardest part of using tabletweaving to finish a fabric is to get even tension between the fabric and the tabletweaving. I imagine this could get trickier and trickier the wider you make your band. I bet it would look really cool though! Post pictures if you do it!
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